LION CAFE: Shibuya’s secret classical music oasis
Tokyo is one of the densest major cities in the world with a constant sensory overload of sound. It can be an exhausting place and that makes those rare sanctuaries of calm hidden throughout the city all the more special. LION CAFE, tucked away between love hotels and used underwear shops in Shibuya’s seedy Maruyamacho district, is one of the best examples of a relaxing oasis amidst the chaos.
Originally opened in 1923 by Yamadera Yanosuke, the cafe is dedicated to classical music. Yamadera had a background in architecture and his commitment to the creation of this audiophile haven was so great that he designed and built much of the original structure himself. Unfortunately, the building was ruined by bombing during WW2 and had to be restored in 1950.
Despite being rebuilt, stepping into the cafe through the Baroque archway still feels like passing through a portal into 1923. For Tokyo, the 2 story cafe is a cavernous space with gaudy chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. The interior is filled with burgundy velour seats that are all positioned to face the same way, creating an atmosphere akin to a theatre. The seats face the front wall where there is a custom, 3m tall wooden speaker system and collection of vinyl and cds. In front of the speakers, given pride of place, is a bust of Beethoven.
Under management by Ms Ishihara, the 3rd generation owner who inherited Lion from her late husband, the staff are strict regarding noise. Customers are expected to be silent. Waitstaff wordlessly leave a menu and an ashtray at each table and take orders in a hushed whisper. Customers range from old ojisan who look as if they are reliving a past life as they recline with their eyes closed to young university students using the space to complete their schoolwork.
The staff take requests for music except between 3-7PM when the Lion Concert is held and each table is provided with a printed set list.
It’s rare to find a spot in Tokyo as magical as Lion Cafe. Whether you are a classical music enthusiast, are seeking a place to relax or simply want to experience a piece of Tokyo history - Lion Cafe is an absolute must visit.
All photos from thevinylfactory