SAYAMA HILLS: Miyazaki’s world on the edge of Tokyo
Hayao Miyazaki, arguably the world’s most beloved animator and the father figure of Studio Ghibli, has earned international respect for his films and their universal messaging. Miyazaki, a man with a strong understanding of his own philosophy, has particularly been concerned with environmentalism and man’s relationship with nature. His films often vocally critique the more western-centric notion of humanity’s dominance over nature and focus on the benefits of a reconnection with our environment.
hayao miyazaki | source: cinapse
Many draw parallels to traditional Japanese religions to explain this philosophy and while there may be some truth in that - it doesn’t paint the whole picture. In reality, it’s more poignant to look at modern Japan to understand why Miyazaki feels so strongly on these themes.
It’s so easy to feel swallowed up in a city like Tokyo, with 37 million people across the larger metropolitan area and often not much in the way of escape from grey, urban development. Living in Tokyo for an extended amount of time, it becomes abundantly clear why one would feel the yearning for a return to nature and freedom from the claustrophobic surrounds of the inner city.
the outskirts of sayama hills
Sayama Hills is one of those rare spots, not far from the center of Tokyo, where it feels like you can escape into a different world - far from the hustle of Tokyo life. Only about an hour from Tokyo, this 3,500-hectare stretch of lush greenery was a frequent getaway spot for Miyazaki. This place itself was instrumental in the development of Miyzazaki’s environmentalist worldview and it ultimately came to serve as the model for the forest in his acclaimed film, My Neighbor Totoro.
While only a rare few have the imagination of Miyazaki, it’s not hard for the mind to start wandering as you stroll trough the dense forest at Sayama Hills. Sunlight filters through the crowded canopy above and creates an almost dream like atmosphere within the park that contributes to the ethereal quality that it holds.
light filtering through the trees at sayama hills
The park has taken on somewhat of a touristy persona in recent years, with Totoro movie trivia & signs plastered throughout the park. However, this doesn’t take away from its magic in the slightest - it’s still easy to get lost in the hills and not come across another person for long enough to lose yourself in the illusion of being in another world.
The hills are also home to over 1,400 types of plant and is famed for the number of butterflies fluttering about. Surrounded by such diversity, it’s easy to feel a connection to nature that’s becoming rarer and rarer these days.
looking down through the hills
The most amazing thing about this spot though is the silence. It’s so easy to become used to constant noise while living in Tokyo. Train announcements, conbini chimes, pachinko parlors and street crossing signs all take up so much space in one’s head and can make it hard to truly relax. The area surrounding Sayama Hills is already semi rural and fairly quiet, but the partition that the trees provide bring about an almost complete silence and make this the perfect spot to escape to and clear your head. The park’s Trident Maple Grove (below) is particularly still and it’s easy to find yourself completely lost amongst the towering trees.
complete silence in sayama hills’ trident maple grove
The park doesn’t only have greens to offer - climbing up the hills and emerging out on the western side will bring you around to Sayama Lake. While the forest provides soft, surreal light - the lake offers a canvas off of which the sun can reflect to create a dazzling panorama. While it offers a harsh change from the forest, it’s equally as dreamlike.
a couple on a date at sayama lake
This area is definitely more crowded than the forest as it’s a popular date spot. However, its a large enough area that you can find a secluded spot under a tree and lounge in the light of the glimmering lake.
the edge of sayama lake
It’s a time of high stress for everyone in 2021 and it’s important to take the time and find ways to relax. Miyazaki, a man of profound insight, knows this more than anyone and understands that reconnecting with nature and escaping the anxiety-inducing noise and commotion of city life is one of the best ways to achieve this. We would all do well to take a note from his books and visit the place that directly inspired him in the formation of this philosophy.